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War and men's clothing: Hart Schaffner & Marx, 1917

In 1917 American clothing manufacturer Hart Schaffner & Marx was making military uniforms in addition to their stylish everyday and sporting clothing. In this brochure, they sell the idea that military design translates to everyday and sporting wear. Not a new idea, but one that has lasted.

  Hart shaffner marx style book cover Liza Cowan Ephemera Collections
Hart Schaffner & Marx style book,  1917, Cover. PSAW ephemera collections

 

 Hart shaffner & Marx style book for men and young men fall and winter 1917-1918
Hart Schaffner & Marx, Style Book For Men and Young Men. 1917.

 

 

  hart shaffner marx style book, elegant young man, spats, dandy with walking stick Liza Cowan Ephemera CollectionsLI
Hart Schaffner & Marx. Style Book

"Insist on all Wool. It is more important than ever to be careful what you get in clothes. Woolen fabrics give longer service, fit better and hold their shape; they are cheapened if mixed with cotton"

 

  5 hart shaffner marx style book for men, 1917, military uniforms world war one, man in jodphurs, men in plus four, woman sitting on fence, elegant men, woman in spats, Liza Cowan Ephemera Collections
Hart Schaffner & Marx 1917.

"We make officers' uniforms of all wool cloths, many different weights and weaves"

Notice that they do not make uniforms for the enlisted men. Nor do they show the officers in combat. That probably wouldn't sell much merchandise for them.

  Hart Schaffner Marx illustration Liza Cowan Ephemera Collections
Hart Shaffner & Marx 1917

"You'd expect clothes this fall to have the military touch in the models; they have. In suits and overcoats, you'll find it evident; gives a new vigor and snap that most men will like."

 

  hart schaffner marx style book, elegant men 1917, man in trench coat, men in spats Liza Cowan Ephemera Collections
Hart Schaffner & Marx 1917

"Economy is one of the war-cries. The best economy is not in cheaper quality, but in better. "

 

 Hart schaffner marx style book 1917
Hart Schaffner& Marx 1917

"Sport and military models are too good to be confined to sports or the military. They're for any time or place. Most men look well in them; young men especially"

 

14 hart shaffner marx style book 1917

This snazzy little advertising brochure features illustrations by two different artists. Although JC Leyendecker became famous for his HS&M ads, as did Edward Penfield, I don't think this is their work.

 Two quiz questions:

1) who illustrated the HS&M brochure?

2) Who knows the source of this often repeated but rarely cited quotation from Diana Vreeland:

"Uniforms are the sportswear of the 19th Century"

And I don't actually know the answers, so include your references.


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